Tuesday 11 September 2018

四天三夜曼谷“吃为上着”

习惯了每到某个地方回来,总要把itinerary及花费和大家分享。然而,我越来越懒,写部落格的速度远远的落在我的生活之后。这阵子稍微勤一些,写的,已经是去年的事儿了。所以啊,最近的itinerary,连花费记录也懒得找出来一一写下了。

这一次又到曼谷,是为了从美国回来的四姨。我于2016年带表妹到曼谷吃喝玩乐,表妹对曼谷美食念念不忘,千交代万交代四姨必须走一趟曼谷,于是我百忙中把妈妈和三位阿姨都带上,到曼谷吃吃喝喝去了。

这四天的住宿:Airbnb - Silom Bangkok New Classic
从曼谷到Maeklong Railway Market及Damnoen Saduak Floating Market司机:Peera (+66818597080)


Day 1 - 7th Jun 2018
景点:Asiatique
食:Pee Aor Tom Yum Goong

从住处露台看曼谷市上空的彩虹
我们从曼谷机场叫了Grab到Silom的住处。司机大哥在离我们入住的公寓约300米处硬是转入了Lalai Sap Market,他信心满满的,直到完全被卡住为止。我们有点儿啼笑皆非,付了车资,扛起行李再多走几步路就到了。难为他卡在那儿不知得花都少功夫才得以安全把车子退出小巷。

我们对于住处非常满意,大家很快就把公寓当成自己的家了。我们梳洗后乘BTS找吃去。第一天重点就是Pee Aor Tom Yum Goong。我带着四位美食家还多多少少有些紧张,还好她们都吃得非常满意。


吃了晚餐又grab到Asiatique The Riverfront去。原以为她们会喜欢在干净的“稍微高端点的夜市”shopping,但显然这地点不是她们所爱。我们稍微打了个转就回公寓休息去了。


Day 2 - 8th Jun 2018
景点:Maeklong Railway Market,Damnoen Saduak Floating Market,Kao San Road,MBK Center
食:早餐 - Punjung Cafe
        午餐 - Tom Yum Goong Banglamphu
        晚餐 - Lek Seafood


我们第一站就是到Maeklong Railway Market看火车去。到达Maeklong时错过了第一趟火车,于是妈妈和阿姨们就很高兴的逛着菜市场。沿着铁路走着,她们的收获可不少。最后,我们走到Punjung Cafe吃早餐去,一边等着火车,一边尝美食,以及她们谈不完的话题和故事……

三姨、二姨、落荒而逃的四姨(以及早已不在镜头内的妈妈)

和Punjug Cafe老板合影

离开了Maeklong Railway Market我们就到Damnoen Saduak Floating Market去。(这是吸取了上一回的教训,舍弃了我喜爱的Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market,把railway market和floating market合为一行程,以节省时间与金钱。)Damnoen Saduak的floating的部分比Khlong Lat Mayom的大得多,游客也相对较多。少了陆地菜市场的部分,少了自主权,我们倒是吃得买得不多。但我们乘船绕了一小时半的一圈,却也买了、吃了、看了……相当满意的。

离开了Damnoen Saduak Floating Market就叫司机把我们送回曼谷。我此趟曼谷行发誓吃不着Tom Yum Goong Banglamphu不回家的。趁时间上安排得来,当然是让司机直接把我们送到Tom Yum Goong Banglamphu的档口前。我们这一次人多,点了一桌的食物,大家吃得津津有味,赞不绝口(详情下回分享)






吃饱了撑着,就到Khao Shan Road血拼去。

血拼完毕一行人挤上tuk tuk到MBK Center走走瞧瞧买些土产去。


表弟之前和我说好了要给她们惊喜,我只好找个借口把大家骗回住处(不然她们可想一口气多走几个夜市血拼呢!)。表弟再“空降”到我们公寓门口和我们“偶遇”,然后到路口的Lek Seafood吃晚餐去。

晚餐完毕,大家都懒了,就回公寓谈天说地去。



Day 3 - 9th Jun 2018
景点:Chatuchak Weekend Market,JJ Mall
食:早餐 - Silom 3 Khao Soi Noodle Shop、Silom一带的街边小吃
        午餐 - Chatuchak Paella及各类小吃、Toh-Plue
        晚餐 - Thipsamai附近的小贩


一早,我们走到Soi 3吃Khao Soi去。这家小店是大家公认曼谷最佳khao soi,一大清早站在门口打包的人可多了。我们硬是挤进小店内,六个人叫了三小碗尝尝。这北泰国面食吃起来有点儿像我们的咖喱面,但稍甜,挤一些酸柑后还不错,但并不止于叫人回味。
我们过后又继续在Silom附近的街道上走着,看见人多的小档口就坐下来凑热闹。吃的早餐总类可不少。要不是最后下起雨来,我们也不知要吃多久。
雨一直下个不停。我们不想一整天呆在公寓里,于是决定grab到JJ Mall去,在室内血拼,等雨停了再走到Chatuchak去。就这样子,我们把一天都预留给Chatuchak,吃、喝、血拼都在里头解决。



离开Chatuchak后叫了Grab,却遇上个循规蹈矩的小哥拒载(我们共五人),好不容易再叫上一辆,却已经碰上曼谷大堵车时间。我原想要到Jay Fai吃晚餐,再碰碰运气看Thipsamai会不会有比较少人的时候。结果一下车被Thipsamai门口的队伍吓死了,她们赶紧去拍照留念。再多走几步就是Jay Fai了,门口已经写着fully reserved。看见店门口四周站满游客,好奇问了一下,原来那些订了位子的也已经站在门口等了两个小时,连位子都还没有,更别说食物了。真是不可思议!我可不打算把青春花在排队上,于是我们再稍微往前走,路边有好几个小档口,人也不少,这就坐下来吃。在曼谷,反正食物平均水平高,很少会吃到难吃食物的。







Day 4 - 10th Jun 2018
景点:The Grand Palace
食:早餐 - Tha Tian Market旁的店屋吃粥和面食
        第二早餐 - Royal Thai Navy Club
        午餐 - 机场解决
       

我们对Tha Tian Market附近的食物印象不错。为了节省时间,决定直接乘车到那儿吃早餐,然后在Grand Palace开门后就可以直接进入参观。






吃了早餐,时间刚刚好。我们看见一大群的中国游客正陆陆续续地集合,赶忙快步越过人群,尽早买票避开人潮。虽然大家都不是第一次到访,但毕竟都是好多年前的事了。在里头打转竟然也还是趣味怏然的。我们在里头走了约两小时半吧,出来后在Royal Thai Navy Club吃点儿点心才回公寓拎行李到机场。




Read also other posts about our Bangkok trip:
Bringing Aunties to Maeklong Train Market



Other itineraries:
2017 - Germany: Upper Middle Rhine Valley One Day Tour (Stay tune)

Monday 10 September 2018

Bangkok 4D4N for First Timer

I can't really recall how many times have I been to Bangkok. It is definitely one of my favorite cities in the world because they serve the best food in the world! Be it humble street food or high end fine dining restaurants, Bangkok has it all! (This comment comes from a food-loving-Penangite.... go figure)

For this trip, I was bringing first-timers to Bangkok. I ensured that we covered at least a temple, a night market, a floating market and a shopping mall. As usual, I also make sure that I visit a place that I've never been to for every Bangkok trips I make.



Arrival Evening
Don Mueang Airport is always busy. Though our host arranged for someone to pick us up from the airport, it still took us a few hours to finally reached our studio apartment AirBnB CHIC STUDIO at Rama 9.

We grabbed to New Rot Fai Market Ratchada for dinner and shopping. There are rows and rows of food stalls selling mouth watering array of food. However, both of us couldn't eat much so we ended up with only one Pla Pao (Thai Grilled Fish) and some snacks..

The items being sold at Ratchada Train Market are not much different from the stuff sold at the markets around Bangkok. However, this won't stop us from having lots of fun doing shopping.






Day 1 (Maeklong Railway Market + Kanchanaburi (Bridge of River Kwai))
I have never been to Maeklong Railway Market. Since we have bigger group this round, I decided that we should rent a van and go all the way to Makelong Railway Market and Bridge of River Kwai to see something different. (I've saw people offering such 1-day tour packages online so I assumed this is do-able)
The car rental agency didn't warn me about the time needed for covering both places. Maeklong Railway Market is about 70km away from Bangkok, and it will take around 90 minutes to arrive, depending on the traffic situation. From Maeklong Railway Market to Kanchanaburi is about 120km, and will take around 2 to 2.5 hours depending on the traffic. Going back to Bangkok from Kanchanaburi is another 150km, which will take around 2 to 3 hours (And because we reached Bangkok during peak hour, it was even worse). So basically we spent about 7 hours in the car.


It was my bad decision actually, but it didn't stop us from having lots of fun. Maeklong Railway Market is worth the visit because of the craziness. Seeing the vendors rushing to close their parasols and canvas when the train arriving, and seeing the parasols and canvas immediately reopen after the train passes, definitely worth the 90 minutes drive from Bangkok.

Kanchanaburi was very cool too. However, I will never again plan this as part of a day tour. I think Kanchanaburi worth an at least 2D1N trip because of the history and nature.

We had a very short visit at the Bridge of River Kwai, and strolled along the Death Railway. (The track is developed into a walkway with side platforms. This allows crossing the railway bridge on foot. These platforms are useful as viewpoints and for avoiding trains. A small tourist train runs back and forth across the bridge.)

By the time we arrived at Bangkok, the traffic was so bad that we decided to bid farewell to our driver mid-way and walked to Terminal 21 for air-conditioning. Of course, after the exhausting car ride, I was glad to have dinner at the food court of Terminal 21.


Day 2 (Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market + Chatuchak Weekend Market)
We started our day at Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market.

Ever since I been to Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market back in year 2016, I've fell in love with this place. This is a market that visited mainly by the locals (more tourists compare to my previous visit, but still very authentic), selling mouth watering food and fresh ingredients. I'd say this is one of the best place to have breakfast for Thai food lovers.


I didn't try the boat trip in my previous visit, so this round we decided to take a 1-hour-boat-ride. It was a nice ride to experience peaceful riverside atmosphere and to see a more traditional way of Thai life up close. I love the tranquility, which is hard to find in Bangkok's hustle and bustle.


After our breakfast, we took Grab to go to Chatuchak Weekend Market. There's no reasons not to bring Bangkok first-timer to one of the world's largest weekend markets (covers area of 27 Acres, altogether divided into 27 Sections, contains more than 15,000 booths selling goods from every part of Thailand). Even for person that doesn't enjoy shopping, this is still a place that you must visit at least once to understand the craziness.

After bidding farewell with our friends that continued their journey to Krabi, our group downsized to two. We decided to have dinner at Pee Aor Tom Yum Goong. It is often named as the “Best Tom Yum In Bangkok”. I'll not call it the best (because my "Bangkok best tom yum" title goes to "Tom Yum Goong Banglamphu"), but the tom yum noodles that they serve comes in varieties of options and taste really good.



Day 3 (Wat Arun + Khao San Road + Asiatique The Riverfront)
On the third day, we started our day with breakfast at Doy Kuay Teow Reua. Back in my family trip in year 2013, our driver introduced us to boat noodle in Ayutthaya, and I fell in love with boat noodle ever since. I googled and read multiple blogs about boat noodle in Bangkok, and I've chosen Doy Kuay Teow Reua to try.
We first had to take BTS to Victory Monument. Then Google map brought us crossing small alleys by the canal, including those that were wide enough for one person to cross. This boat noodle is right by the canal, and behind a temple. They serve very simple menu: beef or pork. There were also other vendors selling kuih, and I heard the satay stall that operates in the afternoon is great too. Do visit this place before it is known to the tourists!


Going through the alleys, we saw some food vendors preparing their food in very traditional ways, and met a lot of traditional street food vendors. I think this is a place that worth multiple visits to explore further.

cooking rice

We then took a boat to Tha Tien to visit Wat Arun. I always love Wat Arun. It always draws the most stunning skylines of Bangkok.
Boat ride



After Wat Arun, we took the boat to the other side of Chao Phraya River as we wished to visit the Grand Palace. However, when we saw the queue, we decided that we better spend our limited time somewhere else.

Look at the queue!

到此一游照

We then took a Grab to Khao San Road, and walked 3 blocks away to have our lunch at Tom Yum Goong Banglamphu. This humble stall located on the sidewalk outside of the main Banglamphu car park. You won't miss it because of the constant queue in front of the stall.

As there were only 2 of us, we only ordered a tom yum goong and a roasted pork from this stall, and ordered a small plate of Tod Mun Pla (fish cake) from an adjacent stall.

The tom yum goong from this stall was perfect. It was creamy, fatty, and with so many layers of flavors. It officially went into my list of "must eat in Bangkok". (Also, the fruit juice stall right opposite this stall was great too! I've never came across such variety of fresh fruit juice to choose from, at extremely reasonable price)



After spending a few hours in Khao San Road, we decided to head to Asiatique for Christmas Eve dinner. We picked Ko Dang Talay, a restaurant by the river, and had some great time there.



Day 4 (Show DC)
The only reason that we decided to go to Show DC was because we were lazy. We decided not to wake up too early, spent some time in the neighbourhood, then went straight to airport. Show DC was the obvious choice. It was just a few blocks away from where we stayed. Though it has a grand concept of being the hub of leisure and entertainment, we certainly didn't feel the thrill. Maybe because we went there early, there were almost no one around. We had some simple food at cafe, walked around, and headed back to the apartment.




Read also about other blog posts about our Bangkok trip:
Maeklong Railway Market



Other itineraries:
2017 - Germany: Upper Middle Rhine Valley One Day Tour (Stay tune)

Wednesday 22 August 2018

臣服于中国寡妇山


我天生好逸,却无意间让中国寡妇山(Mount Kinabalu)糊里糊涂进了我的bucket list五年前因无知,中国寡妇山爬不成(所幸有了段美好回忆),但在bucket list里的事项我终究必须认真面对。于是,今年,我终于让Mount Kinabalu hike成行了。

为什么是“中国寡妇山”? Legends & Myths – Mt Kinabalu Tale
There are many folklores and fables that tell stories of how Kinabalu got its name. The local Kadazan Dusun people believe that the word is derived from “Aki Nabalu”, which translates into “revered place of the dead”. The mysterious KadazanDusun tribe believes that spirits dwell on the mountain top. According to another popular folklore, the name Kinabalu actually meant “Cina Balu”. “Cina Balu” translates into “chinese widow”. Legend tells a story of a Chinese prince who ascends from the mountain in search of a huge pearl guarded by a ferocious dragon. He married a Kadazan woman upon his successful conquest, whom he soon abandoned for return to China. His heartbroken wife wandered into the mountains to mourn whereby eventually she turned into stone.

为了征服中国寡妇山,我们确实是慎重地计划了一连串的训练事项。但最终因种种原因,我也只不过爬了几次Penang Hill(还乘缆车下山!),登山前两个星期在住宅区跑了几次,就胆粗粗飞往亚庇了。

因亚航把班机延迟了(不是误点,是几个月前把我们的班机给延迟),我们到达亚庇机场已经是晚上十点多了,等到我们到住处安顿下来已经是午夜。我们一行十一人隔天早上七点集合,到达Kinabalu Park已经近九点了。办了手续、取了午餐,再乘车子到达Timpohon Gate,接近十点才真正开始爬山。


2015年地震后,从Timpohon上下山是仅有的路线。第一天的行程是从海拔1866m的Timpohon Gate爬至海拔3273m的Laban Rata Resthouse,共6公里左右。

我平时好吃懒做,这短短6公里路我可一点都不敢称之为轻松。所幸有伴,大家说说笑笑吃吃喝喝的,甚是好玩。再加上上山的路风景宜人,大多路段也总是在树荫里,倒不太难。真累得不行,一路上也有好几个供人休息的亭子。而松鼠们见惯了游人,还会走近讨吃的。我幸运,还碰见一只对我微笑的小松鼠。


当我好不容易到达第一个小屋时,我以为已经到达目的地了。也不理自己一身汗流浃背,也不急于进屋梳洗休息,大次次地坐在一楼露台上等待友人到达。看风云转变,听静谧之声,和随风摇曳的野花一起感受阳光的热量。

直到我发觉残酷真相,必须继续再往前走时,那短短几百米竟然成了全程最艰难的一小段。

动者恒动、静着恒静,和人生一样,到达目的地前真的绝对不可松懈下来,否则懈怠后再出发,守恒的不只是动量,还有心理上潜意识里不知哪来的千般不愿。


在宿舍吃了晚餐,赏了日落,随意的稍微梳洗一下(水太冷,鼓不起勇气冲凉呢),大家就上床就寝。毕竟,最艰难的一段路还没开始……隔天是从海拔3273米爬到4095米,约2.7公里的路程。

隔天凌晨两点吃早餐,两点半集合,两点四十五分左右开始往登顶之路出发。往上一望,黑黢黢的,只有人龙手里的微弱灯光在摇晃。

看不见尽头的灯火比无边无际的墨黑更可怕,那是对于艰难险阻的未知,也是想象中的艰巨终于要转换为现实的事实;那是前面爬山者的速度体力给予的压力,也是对于自己的能力的信念终于变为真实的考验……唯一可做的,是调节一下心态,咬紧牙关一鼓作气。

开始时还可以偶尔谈谈天,还可以一边爬梯子一边享受美景,听风吹林子波涛般的声音,看月光洒落云上的微弱银荧。后来,我们都分散了,大家只能依着自己的步伐,而我,我只能聚精会神的一步一步地走。

到了Sayat-Sayat check point (约海拔3,700米),真正的挑战终于开始。从这儿开始再没梯级了,好多路段是光秃秃大石,要么就必须手脚并用,要么就攀藤揽葛,其中一段,我甚至已经是到了走几步就得歇一歇的状况。身边互不相识的登山客,偶尔互相激励着……

四周依然黑沉沉一片,空气越来越稀薄,脚步越来越沉重。我低着头,眼前只有头顶电筒的聚光。我体力虽不足,但毅力倒是有的。倒吸了口气,咬了咬牙,我再不听周边的声音,我再不见周遭的形影,把梯山架壑、举步维艰抛于脑后,鼓足干劲一心一意往前走。直到我再回过神来注意周围,我已经接近South Peak了。

抬头,Low's Peak这终点开始有零星的电筒灯光在摇晃,我眼前人龙已经稀落得不成形。东边开始曙光射寒色,我的毅力竟然又松懈下来。当我步履维艰地往Low's Peak爬着,心里其实是自己跟自己辩论着。这一步还想着可以和同伴们聚首在Low's Peak,下一步又盘算着是否应该就此坐下等待South Peak的日出……每走一步就盘算着是否可以在日出前到达Low's Peak峰顶,每走一步就告诉自己没有理由在最后几百米放弃……

最终,这场辩论还是让坚持登顶的那个自己胜利了。


一同登顶的同伴们有轻松告捷的、有精疲力竭的。在Low's Peak上,大家难掩喜悦及自豪。

我虽没赶上太阳冲破云层的那一刹那,却也总算在中国寡妇山顶赏了一场日出。战胜自己的激动,和着大自然的壮观,在记忆里,烙了个印。

阳光照在山峰,在大地上拉了长长的影子,特别漂亮

神山面前,人类显得特别渺小。我想不通,怎么有人会在此而不感卑微。

屺上小小人影

我们在山上呆了约莫一个小时吧,因时间有限,才登顶这又往下走了。我们在宿舍吃了早餐,休息了一会儿就往下走。而下山这一段,最叫我啼笑皆非。

我是一心冲着中国寡妇山而来,从买机票开始到登山为止,我一直以登山顶为目标。而在登顶途上煎熬着时,我告诉自己,登顶了再说吧,没力气下山事后再打算。

结果,下山时真的是因为没做好心理建设,怨起自己来了。我一来在山顶扭伤脚裸,二来心理上有点儿气馁,下山时步履蹒跚的,连那群日本老爷爷老奶奶都比我快呢。要不是后来登山导游实在看不过眼,握着我的手一步步下山,我可能当天也没法在日落前走出森林。

自从把中国寡妇山放进了我的bucket list,我一直以为是来征服神山的。来了一趟这才明白,人类登山不是征服,是臣服。我们渺小而卑微。登一次山和到人间打一转是一样的,大自然和命运是主宰,我们只能不卑不亢尽己所能而无憾。

Sunday 15 July 2018

妈妈不在家之食谱(八十):意大利煎蛋


我总是对鸡蛋料理着迷,因为它们总是相对的容易而且千变万化。为了frittata(意大利煎蛋),我上网买了个小铁锅(Chutang Mini Steel Frying Pan)。收到时很满意,那小小铁锅握在手里很沉,还没开始用就觉得它很行了。妈妈很认真地为我“开锅”后,我很随意的,到小菜圃里摘了几颗茄子做起意大利煎蛋。今天意犹未尽,稍微认真一点的,又弄了一个意大利煎蛋。

首先,当然是到菜圃里找食材。
木耳菜、莳萝、茄子、枝豆

食材:
1. 木耳菜(只取叶片)、莳萝(取叶片)、茄子(切丁)、枝豆(只取豆)适量
2. 蒜头几瓣(切成蓉)
3. 小辣椒适量(切成蓉)
4. 叉烧适量(切成丁)
5. 烧肠适量(切片)
6. 鸡蛋三颗
7. 调味料:牛油、黑胡椒粉、幼盐



做法:
1. 把炉子preheat至摄氏180度。
2. 同时,把蔬菜都洗干净、切好,放一边备用。
3. 鸡蛋里放入幼盐和黑胡椒,打散,放一边备用。
4. 在小铁锅里放入牛油热之。


5. 放入蒜米和小辣椒爆香。
6. 加入茄子丁中火小炒。


7. 加入木耳菜炒一炒。


8. 最后把打散调味后的鸡蛋倒入,然后放入已经热至摄氏180度地炉子烤十分钟。
9. 十分钟后把小铁锅取出,放上烧肠和枝豆再烤两分钟。
10. 烤完后把小铁锅取出,撒上莳萝就可以吃啦~


由于太满意这铁锅表现,我再上网又买了个21cm锅底的,改天可以做几人份的意大利煎蛋。

Monday 18 December 2017

不只是乡愁

我疯狂的爱着诗歌的年代,正是我年少强说愁的年代。余光中和席慕容的情诗,以最简单的方式,驻进我心底。

余光中的诗歌,当然不只是《乡愁》(余光中诗选)。我最爱的,包括那首深情的风铃,永远的在心底清脆地晃动。


《风铃》 ~余光中
我的心是七层塔檐上悬挂的风铃
叮咛叮咛咛
此起彼落 敲叩著一个人的名字
————你的塔上也感到微震吗?
这是寂静的脉搏 日夜不停
你听见了吗 叮咛叮咛咛?
这恼人的音调禁不胜禁
除非叫所有的风都改道
铃都摘掉 塔都推倒

只因我的心是高高低低的风铃
叮咛叮咛咛
此起彼落
敲叩著一个人的名字

余光中走了

2017年12月14日,余光中教授于台湾逝世,享年89岁。



没想到,隔了七个月终于再拜访自己的部落,为的,就是余光中。如果不是无意间在Facebook上看见朋友写一段“忆余光中”,我也没发觉我爱的诗人离开了……

我认识余光中,从罗大佑开始。“乡愁四韵”里,罗大佑用最平静的曲调,余光中用最浅白的汉字,叫我血液里的黄河咆哮(余光中曾写道:我的血系中有一条黄河的支流)。然后,我就爱上了余光中。(爱上罗大佑,是更早的事了)





《乡愁四韵》——余光中

给我一瓢长江水啊长江水
酒一样的长江水
醉酒的滋味
是乡愁的滋味
给我一瓢长江水啊长江水

给我一张海棠红啊海棠红
血一样的海棠红
沸血的烧痛
是乡愁的烧痛
给我一张海棠红啊海棠红

给我一片雪花白啊雪花白
信一样的雪花白
家信的等待
是乡愁的等待
给我一片雪花白啊雪花白

给我一朵腊梅香啊腊梅香
母亲一样的腊梅香
母亲的芬芳
是乡愁的芬芳
给我一朵腊梅香啊腊梅香



余光中的诗,当然不只是《乡愁》,可偏偏对于我来说,余光中的诗,就是乡愁。一种最纯朴、最真实、最直白,又带着丝丝无奈的乡愁。

《乡 愁》
小时候
乡愁是一枚小小的邮票
我在这头
母亲在那头

长大後
乡愁是一张窄窄的船票
我在这头
新娘在那头

後来啊
乡愁是一方矮矮的坟墓
我在外头
母亲在里头

而现在
乡愁是一湾浅浅的海峡
我在这头
大陆在那头

余光中老先生,谢谢您。一路走好。