Knysna to Hermanus

从Knysna我们选择N2，经过Mossel Bay、Swellendam、Riviersonderend，然后用R326往Stanford的方向驶去，再转入R43到Hermanus。

离开Knysna的那天，天气特别好，一路上的蓝天让我忍不住用手机在车里拍了许多照片。从Knysna到Mossel Bay，一路沿着海岸线向西，靛蓝一样的海水，在万里晴空下显得特别迷人。

Knysna Lagoon蓝澄澄

Wilderness海湾

Wilderness的Kaaimansrivier

离开了Mossel Bay，风景开始转换。要么，是蓊蓊农地；要么，是叠叠山峦。一种大地任我翱翔的气魄，很容易就这样子给奔驰了出来。

像所有公路电影一样，道路两旁给人一种孤单萧萧的感觉。我们是广袤大地上的过客。只能贪婪地、使劲地，想要捉住些什么，记下些什么……

处处有鸵鸟

在这一路上，最让我惦记的，不是一望无际的油菜花田，而是风吹麦浪时的温柔。照片拍不出风儿轻拂的妩媚，拍不出青绿麦草轻盈而浪漫的模样。风吹麦浪时的颤动，让我想起大学时宿舍前午后松涛，这种最纯净的声音，单纯而美好。

当然，从Mossel Bay到Hermanus，还有一大片的彩色盘。我们汽车在公路上驶过，只能远远看见那些五颜六色的田地，时间有限，不允许我们任性驾车寻找那一片土地。下一次吧，下一次再到南非，必定得花上几天，在Overberg迷路，在Overberg为颜色疯狂……

在马路中间自爽

留恋花丛间

R326和R43的两旁，都是油菜花海。我们从CapeTown驾车到Oudtshoorn时，虽然已经看了好多的油菜花田，但是，又有谁可以抗拒油菜花海的魅力呢？我们这些在马来西亚长大的小孩，对花海，有一种迷恋。一种只能渴望、只能期盼的美丽。所以，大家都忘了时间、忘了饥饿、忘了鲸鱼的呼唤，在空荡荡的R326上撒野。

这样的颜色，很难让人不心醉

请你也读：

Detail Itinerary: 南非十六天十六夜行程
景点：Company's Garden
景点：Table Mountain - 母亲城的灵魂
景点：Bo Kaap - 缤纷世界里的前尘往事
住宿：B.I.G.
Road Trip：Cape Town to Oudtshoorn
小镇：Oudtshoorn
住宿：Gumtree Guest House
Road Trip: Garden Route之Mossel Bay、George和Wilderness
住宿：Libertas Farm House
景点：Addo Elephant National Park
景点：Amakhala Private Game Reserve
Road Trip: Garden Route之Tsitsikamma
Road Trip: Garden Route之Knysna
住宿：Tides End Manor
Road Trip: Knysna to Hermanus
小镇：Hermanus and Kleinmond 三天两夜
Activity: 寻鲸记
住宿：StoepStories
Road Trip: From Kleinmond to Fishhoek
小镇：Fishhoek
住宿：Dream Villa
小镇：Simon's Town 及 Boulder's Beach
Activity: Cape Peninsula One Day Tour
景点：West Coast National Park
Activity: Hop On Hop Off之一：Kirstenbosch和Groot Constantia
Activity: Hop On Hop Off之二：Harbour Cruise、Downtown和Signal Hill
住宿：Brenwin Guest House
Packing tip: How I Pack for 18 Days South Africa Spring Trip in One Cabin Size Luggage

How I Pack for 18 Days South Africa Spring Trip in One Cabin Size Luggage

My principle is: pack light! I always manage to pack everything into my 7kg backpack. Even when I'm not using budget airline, I still pack very light.

Here's the example of how I packed for my 18 days South Africa trip last spring.

We were taking SIA from Penang to Cape Town via Singapore and Johannesburg, it was a very long flight so I wear something very comfortable so that I can sleep well in the plane. I paired my bra-top with a workout pants, and make this outfit modest by adding a denim jacket. The pants is comfortable enough to be my pajamas during the 18 days, and not a fashion disaster to wear on the plane.

The outfit I wear on the plane 

To prepare for the weather, I brought a set of Heattech long sleeve T-shirt and leggings, a pair of glove, a pair of fleece socks, a light pocketable parka as rain coat and 2 scarfs for any weather. Do note that this pocketable parka not only water repellent, it resists wind chill too. It worked wonder when I was waiting for sunset at the top of Signal Hill.

For sightseeing, I brought a pair of jeans, a pair of leggings and a pair of shorts. The shorts was added because I knew beaches in Cape Town are irresistible.

As usual, I always bring Airism because they are light to pack, quick dry (a. I sweat a lot, b. I need to wash these often), and they release body heat quickly to keep me dry and comfort.  I can use them as inner wear or as normal t-shirt. For this trip, I packed 2, wore one (Airism bra-top).

I bring also one over-sized t-shirt, a blouse, a long sleeve knitwear and a linen shirt. I can match them with the Airism as inner wear, or wear them as it is. 

For in-house comfort clothing, I bring an old t-shirts, a shorts, a set of pajamas (a long sleeve t shirt and a long pants), and wore a work out pants on board. I can mix these as of when necessary.

The only mistake that I made was, I brought my swim suit and a cover up, hoping that the weather is warm enough for me to swim. WRONG! These 2 stayed in my backpack for the 18 days!

All that I stated above, I categorized them using compression bags from Daiso.

This is how compact my 18 days clothing look like

When I put them into my backpack, they taken up less than half of the space. Once the necessary clothing are in, I can then start to pack my toiletries, a novel, and my drawing materials.

See also my Detail Itinerary: 南非十六天十六夜行程

Garden Route之Knysna

Knysna是Garden Route上其中一个最受欢迎的小镇。不过，我们为了可以有更多时间在Cape Town无所事事，我们决定只在这儿停留一晚。

我基本上喜欢像Knysna一样的小镇，不太繁忙，但应有尽有。早晨生气蓬勃，夜里静谧清幽。真的要我说清楚究竟爱上这个地方的那一点，其实也说不上来。反正这样的步伐，适合我就是了。

夕阳下的Paddler Cruiser特别迷人

做功课时读的旅游简介，都说The Heads of Knysna是非去不可的，再加上我看上了Featherbed Company的Paddler Cruiser，所以我们的Knysna基本上就只排了一个项目：Paddler Cruiser晚餐兼游Knysna Lagoon。

这Featherbed Paddler Cruiser的晚餐之旅，我建议大家可以免了。它只是匆匆在Knysna Lagoon饶了一圈，没有古老船只该有的浪漫，食物又不好吃，每人R465非常不值得。这老船只，在岸边拍照就好。

Featherbed Paddler Cruiser自助餐的一部分

当然，话说回来，虽然我们都觉得这一餐不值得，但是，谁也不能否认Knysna Lagoon的漂亮。我们于黄昏出游，到华灯初上才回到码头，看了Knysna Lagoon的不同风情，倒是满意。

夕阳开始把建筑物都染黄

归巢的鸟群

Knysna Head

停泊在码头的Paddler Cruiser

比乘坐Featherbed Company Paddler Cruiser更加能体验Knysna之美的，其实是我们隔天早上的漫步。

我们走在湖畔时，大地刚刚苏醒。除了我们，也就有几个遛狗的、晨运的。湖面平滑如镜，倒映着绚丽天空。我们在湖边想象自己在这儿养老、在湖畔寻找每一个漂亮的小趣味。独自饿了，就走到附近的小小市场买一些材料回住处做早餐，吃饱了赖在泳池边做日光浴……是的，就这么美好。

你愿意在这样的湖畔养老吗？

连海鸥都比我们悠游自在

请你也读：

Detail Itinerary: 南非十六天十六夜行程
景点：Company's Garden
景点：Table Mountain - 母亲城的灵魂
景点：Bo Kaap - 缤纷世界里的前尘往事
住宿：B.I.G.
Road Trip：Cape Town to Oudtshoorn
小镇：Oudtshoorn
住宿：Gumtree Guest House
Road Trip: Garden Route之Mossel Bay、George和Wilderness
住宿：Libertas Farm House
景点：Addo Elephant National Park
景点：Amakhala Private Game Reserve
Road Trip: Garden Route之Tsitsikamma
Road Trip: Garden Route之Knysna
住宿：Tides End Manor
Road Trip: Knysna to Hermanus
小镇：Hermanus and Kleinmond 三天两夜
Activity: 寻鲸记
住宿：StoepStories
Road Trip: From Kleinmond to Fishhoek
小镇：Fishhoek
住宿：Dream Villa
小镇：Simon's Town 及 Boulder's Beach
Activity: Cape Peninsula One Day Tour
景点：West Coast National Park
Activity: Hop On Hop Off之一：Kirstenbosch和Groot Constantia
Activity: Hop On Hop Off之二：Harbour Cruise、Downtown和Signal Hill
住宿：Brenwin Guest House
Packing tip: How I Pack for 18 Days South Africa Spring Trip in One Cabin Size Luggage

Garden Route之Tsitsikamma

依依不舍的离开了Amakhala，我们就往Knysna驶去。离开Port Elizabeth不久就进入Garden Route了。

Tsitsikamma National Park 如门票每人R84

我们的第一站就是Tsitsikamma National Park。安排行程时是很希望在这儿住宿一晚的，但因为时间有限，排来排去行不通，只好在这儿稍作停留，吃一餐，一补遗憾。

Tsitsikamma National Park依着海岸线，而主要住宿便集中于Storms River Mouth，著名的Otter Trail也就从这儿开始。而世界上最高的bungee jump便位于这河上流的Bloukrans Bridge（高216米）。我们没机会有什么搞作，只来得及走了一趟吊桥，但这，已经足够让我们体会蓝天下的Tsitsikamma的迷人风范。









停好了车子，就往Stormriver Mouth的Cattle Baron走去。走在行人道上，大家忍不住对这蓝天和大海不停地拍照，风很大、浪很凶，拍在礁石上四溅的浪花出奇地叫人迷醉。

风很大，你看见游客逆风而行的模样吗？

餐厅就在河口高处，坐着用餐就可一览开阔海景。

看见在做日光浴的dassie(rock hyrax)吗？

平时看他懒懒散散的，找吃时倒相当卖力

我们点了食物就往吊桥跑去，来回约两公里，上下楼梯的路段挺多的，要是赶时间必须做好心理准备。在森林里穿梭还真是不错，偶尔有小溪、小湖、小瀑布什么的。栈道上还有几处观景台，可以拍照观景。

观景台上远眺南冰洋

看见栈道旁的野生海芋花吗？

最爱这石头的颜色

Stormsriver

Peri Peri Beef - R55

从吊桥绕了一绕，回到Cattle Baron吃午餐。因为赶时间，连照片也拍不多了，就拍了我自己点的那peri peri beef。Cattle Baron绝对是信心保证，这牛肉煮得松软，酱汁香浓，那两片面包绝对不够用！

我们十人吃了R959 (约马币两百五），注意看下面收据，海鲜、蜗牛、生蚝、牛扒、猪排等应有尽有哦！

请你也读：

Detail Itinerary: 南非十六天十六夜行程
景点：Company's Garden
景点：Table Mountain - 母亲城的灵魂
景点：Bo Kaap - 缤纷世界里的前尘往事
住宿：B.I.G.
Road Trip：Cape Town to Oudtshoorn
小镇：Oudtshoorn
住宿：Gumtree Guest House
Road Trip: Garden Route之Mossel Bay、George和Wilderness
住宿：Libertas Farm House
景点：Addo Elephant National Park
景点：Amakhala Private Game Reserve
Road Trip: Garden Route之Tsitsikamma
Road Trip: Garden Route之Knysna
住宿：Tides End Manor
Road Trip: Knysna to Hermanus
小镇：Hermanus and Kleinmond 三天两夜
Activity: 寻鲸记
住宿：StoepStories
Road Trip: From Kleinmond to Fishhoek
小镇：Fishhoek
住宿：Dream Villa
小镇：Simon's Town 及 Boulder's Beach
Activity: Cape Peninsula One Day Tour
景点：West Coast National Park
Activity: Hop On Hop Off之一：Kirstenbosch和Groot Constantia
Activity: Hop On Hop Off之二：Harbour Cruise、Downtown和Signal Hill
住宿：Brenwin Guest House
Packing tip: How I Pack for 18 Days South Africa Spring Trip in One Cabin Size Luggage