Saturday, 30 January 2021

Sri Lanka Trip 2019 - The Train Ride from Nanu Oya to Ella

One of the highlights of our Sri Lanka trip, is definitely the train ride from Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya) to Ella. 

Since we have 3 children in the group, and I was not very sure if they would enjoy the train ride during the planning, so I decided that instead of taking the train from Kandy to Ella, we took the shorter but the prettiest part of the train ride. (The ride from Nanu-Oya to Haputale is widely considered the most scenic part of the journey.)

We booked our train tickets back in Malaysia a few months ahead because the 2nd class tickets are very popular. (The only place you can buy online tickets for trains in Sri Lanka is at 12Go.) Why second class you ask? First class is stuffy with windows and doors that won’t open. Second and third class on the other hand, are a truly authentic taste of what life is really like for locals on the Sri Lankan railway system. Third class train seatings are wooden benches and I worried that it will get too uncomfortable if the ride gets too long. So second class is the best choice for our group.

We started our train journey from Nanu Oya, about 10km away from Nuwara Eliya. The Nanu Oya train station was built in 1885. Walking into this train station is really a nostalgic experience. It reminds me of the '80s in Malaysia. I especially love the canteen and the control room. The locals and workers are very friendly. When the trains were no where near the station, they're more than happy to talk to you, answer your questions regarding the building, the function of certain equipment and tools, and of course, their culture. 












We were not as lucky as we wish. It started to rain after we boarded the train. Instead of enjoying the view of the lush mountains, 90% of the time, our train basically just went through fog and rain. The clouds and mist pretty much hiding much of the landscape for the journey. So all the good things we heard about this train ride, we could just imagine. 

However, this didn't dampen our spirits. We had fun. Tons of fun. As the train gained speed, people were leaning out the windows and crowding to hang out the doors of the train, or sit with their feet dangling out of the door. We joined the crowd, took tons of photos. Sometimes when we were lucky, we had a glimpse of sunshine too.



Supposed to be the most scenic train ride

This must look real good on sunny weather



Use your imagination......






If you search Sri Lanka train ride on google, or browse through any social media regarding Sri Lanka, you sure come across photos of people hanging out of moving train in Sri Lanka. We were not as brave, but we took quite a number too, sometimes on a moving train, sometimes posting when the train stopped :)














Oh, of course, there were a number of couple photos too......




During this train ride, generally the adults were having more fun than the kids. The little girl even took a long nap instead of joining our crazy stunts.

Don't worry, he just posted on a stagnant train

He was not allow to do anything dangerous. So he was super bored. 


We met some very nice locals, chit chat a lot, when we were not hanging out of the train.




Finally, we arrived at Ella. Was it worth it to spent a few hours on the train in Sri Lanka? Definitely!

see, all happy with the train ride





Sri Lanka Trip 2019 - The Hill Country

The symbolic heart of the Hill Country is Kandy. South of Kandy, close to the highest point of the island, lies the old British town of Nuwara Eliya. From here, a string of towns and villages – Ella, Haputale and Bandarawela – along the southern edge of the hill country offer famous trekking / walking / hiking routes and other sites of interest.

I have to admit, when I was doing the planning back in Malaysia, I was quite ambitious. I thought we could at least have a walk at Horton Plains National Park or hike the Adam's Peak, we could have afternoon tea at the Grand Hotel, or swim at a waterfall or two, etc. We did none of these.

After we left Kandy, it was a really looong drive to Nuwara Eliya. It was only less than 85km distance, but it took more than 3 hours and felt like forever. Jagath was kind enough to make a few stops so that we won't die from boredom. 

We stopped at Rothschild Tea Estate for a free tea factory tour, and some tea shopping (and hence we cancelled our original plan of visiting tea plantations in the subsequent days in Ella). 


Learning a thing or two about tea leaves



We also stopped by a vista point to view the Ramboda Falls, to do a little bit of stretching, and to answer nature's call. 




When we finally arrived at Nuwara Eliya town, we went straight to Themparadu for lunch. The restaurant is conveniently located at the side of Victoria Park, opposite the Post Office. The staff were very welcoming (they even played football with the kids while we had our lunch). We ordered some rice and curry, hopper, sandwiches are they were all good. I had avocado shake, which was a wrong choice. Not because it didn't taste good. No, it taste excellence, but I was too full after the drink. Couldn't really eat much after this.

avocado shake and another shake which I forgot


After a very relaxing lunch, we visited the famous post office (and the kids need to send some postcards back home). Built in 1894, this red brick building is one of the oldest buildings in Sri Lanka, and now one of the most famous tourist attractions in Nuwara Eliya.





After exploring the town, we bought some food from the local markets and supermarket, before we went to Rose Dale Bungalow. This old British hill station feel pretty much like Cameron Highlands. It is now a favorite retreat for locals to escape the heat of the lowlands, it has nice parks and gardens, markets, vegetables and fruits farms, tea plantations... you get the idea. 


our little helper


We stayed at Rosedale Bungalow at Nuwara Eliya for one night. This bungalow looks really impressive from photos, but unfortunately not well managed. The owner may not have good knowledge in tackling the humidity problem in Nuwara Eliya and hence some musty smell were noticeable in some locations. The water pressure from the showers were very low, and overall need more cleaning in all areas. 



Nice garden



Our accommodation at Ella on the other hand, was lovely. Idyll Homestay is located far enough from the main road (so it is quiet and peaceful), and yet close enough to walk to the main road (about 10 minutes walk). It offers amazing view of the mountains surrounding Ella, and you can even hear the train (and catch a glimpse if you pay attention) passing by the rush mountains. They serve very good Sri Lankan breakfast (we had them at the shared terrace so that all of us can eat together. But if you wish, they can also send to your private balconies). Imagine this, having breakfast with the views of the winding road among the mountains, and the sunrise over Little Adam's Peak. 

our four poster bed

View from our balcony

Sitting at our balcony, bird watching

Nice place to relax

Our usual breakfast place

Great view from the shared terrace



yummy

Kids had fun taking the motorbike

Can you see the avocados?

We took the shorter route


While most people come to Ella for outdoor activities such as hiking, canyoneering along waterfalls and wandering around tea plantations, we visited Ella and did almost nothing. We took a short hike across the jungle to the Nine Arcs Bridge, we visited Ravana falls (no hikes needed), and that are the most active things we did in Ella (I am not ashame of this. I enjoyed my downtime at Ella A LOT!)