Saturday 9 January 2021

Sri Lanka Trip 2019 - The Land of Serendip

I love the name of Serendip, an Old Persian name for Sri Lanka (The island was known by the Romans as Serendivis and by Arabs as Serandib and the Persians as Serendip; the word serendipity is derived from this word. Serendipity has a fairly narrow meaning, one that is concerned with finding pleasing things that one had not been looking for). For me, serendipity is travelers' strongest ally. 



We were a big group of 8 adults and 3 children (2 young families - one with 2 children, one with one child; 4 adults). To make sure we have a little bit of everything for everyone, we covered a few places at the Cultural Triangle, the hill country, the south and west coast of Sri Lanka, and a safari (at Uda Walawe National Park)

While I may talk about all these beautiful places in the future (well, very mood dependent), this post is simply to share our itinerary and general expenses for holiday planning.

Warning: When you plan for your trip in Sri Lanka, NEVER judge your travelling time based on distance. Sri Lanka currently has very limited highways, most of the roads are with not too good condition, or the traffic just too congested.


Day 0 - 17th Sept 2019 (Travelling to Sri Lanka)
Accommodation: Negombo - Christima Residence USD 95.80 for 4 rooms.
Transportation: Car from airport to Christima Residence LKR 2,500 

We flew from Penang to KL in the evening, and from KL to Colombo on the same day. We arrived at Colombo around 10pm and by the time we reached Christima Residence at Negombo, it was already midnight.
 

Day 1 - 18th Sept 2019 (Travelling from Negambo to Dambulla)
Accommodation: Dambulla Sundaras Resorts and Spa, 2 nights, 4 rooms for RM1,781.86 
Transportation: Jagath Tours - Car for 18th ~ 21st Sept USD 350.00

Christima Residence - we had the place all to ourselves

While planning for the trip, I picked Negambo for our first night as I thought we can explore the beach a bit before we travel to Dambulla. However, we enjoyed this place so much we basically just stayed put. 

We split into 2 groups on our first day. One group is those energetic ones, they don't mind wake up early to have a day tour to Anuradhapura and meet us at Dambulla (more than 5 hours drive in total!). The other group is the lazy ones, we prefer to sleep in, relaxing in the pool at Christima Residence, take our own sweet time for breakfast and lunch, relaxing at Sundaras Resorts again, and basically doing nothing on our first day. 

Nice drive (and slow!) from Negambo to Dambulla

Nice place to relax in Sundaras Resorts and Spa



Day 2 - 19th Sept 2019 
Accommodation: Dambulla Sundaras Resorts and Spa 
Transportation: Jagath Tours
Attractions: Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa
Entrance Fee:
Ancient City of Sigiriya USD 30 per pax
Ancient City of Polonnaruwa USD25 per pax
Pidurangala Rock LKR 500.00 per pax

On Day 2, we split into 3 groups. One group stayed at hotel to recover from the tiring first day, one group chose to go to Pidurangala Rock to observe Sigiriya from afar, one group went for Sigiriya. 

I was in the group that went exploring Ancient City of Sigiriya. We started our journey at 7:30am so that we could climb Sigiriya in a relatively cooling temperature. The climb is only 1270 steps so should be not too difficult for most healthy adults. This rock citadel of Sigiriya often being called The Eighth Wonder of the World.

The Lion Rock


After Sigiriya, we met up with the Pidurangala Rock group and continued our journey. Had our lunch at a nice little restaurant just before Polonnaruwa.

The Ancient City of Polonnaruwa, though smaller in scale compare to Anuradhapura, the ruins and temples are within a much more compact area, and they are in better condition. 

The Sacred Quadrangle



Day 3 - 20th Sept 2019 (Travelling from Dambulla to Kandy)
Accommodation: Ceyloni Lake Residency at Kandy, 3 rooms, 1 night RM493.18
Transportation: Jagath Tours
Attractions: Dambulla Cave Temple, Sacred City of Kandy, Temple of the Tooth
Entrance Fee: Dambulla Cave Temple and the Golden Temple LKR 1,500 per pax
 
After breakfast at Dambulla Sundaras Resorts and Spa, we walked from the hotel to Dambulla Cave Temple and the Golden Temple. This is a sacred pilgrimage site for 22 centuries! We spent the whole morning here, before check out and continue our journey to Kandy.



Travelling from Dambulla to Kandy, we stopped at Luck Grove Spice Garden & Restaurant for lunch, and of course, also for a short tour at the spice garden to learn more about herbs and Ayurvedic Medicinal.

We arrived at Kandy at around 4:30pm. Jagath brought us straight to the city center and to the Bodhi tree at Temple of the Tooth. We were told that the Puja timings are 5.30am-6.45am, 9.30am-11am & 6.30pm-8pm. After discussed, we decided to explore Kandy a bit after check in, and visit the Temple of the Tooth the next day 5:30am for the puja. 


View from our room

For dinner, we went to Balaji Dosai, and I had the best dosai of my life!




Day 4 - 21st Sept 2019 (Travelling from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya)
Accommodation: Nuwara Eliya Rose Dale Bungalow RM756.12 for one night, whole bungalow to ourselves
Transportation: Transportation: Jagath Tours
Attractions: Temple of the Tooth, Kandy Lake, Rothschild Tea Estate, Nuwara Eliya Post Office
Entry fee: Temple of the Tooth LKR1,500 per pax (Puja timings: 5.30am - 6.45am, 9.30am - 11am & 6.30pm - 8pm)


We woke up really early, walked to Temple of the Tooth for the 5:30am puja session. The puja session was really crowded, and in order at the same time. We were lucky enough to get a good spot, and able to get a glimpse when the chamber (where the Tooth Relic was) opened. However, you don’t actually see the tooth. It’s kept in a gold casket, which contains a series of six caskets of diminishing size. Even though I am not a religious person, still, the sacred atmosphere moved me. 



After the puja, we spent some time exploring the temple (the temple complex includes a series of smaller temples, shrines and museums.)

Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic

Kandy Lake


After we left the temple, we walked back to the hotel for breakfast, checked out, and started our journey to Nuwara Eliya. That was a really looong way from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya, not because of the distance (less than 85km), but it took more than 3 hours and felt like forever.

On the way, luckily, we could stop at Rothschild Tea Estate for a free tea factory tour, and some tea shopping. 



When we finally arrived at Nuwara Eliya town, we went straight to Themparadu for lunch. Starving! After lunch, we explore the town a bit, visited the famous post office (and the kids need to send some postcards back home), bought some food, before we went to Rose Dale Bungalow. This town feel like Cameron Highland maybe 15 years back. Parks and gardens, markets, vegetables and fruits farms, tea plantations... you get the idea. For Malaysians, unless you plan to use this as the base for Horton Plains National Park (which includes World’s End) hiking, maybe you can just skip Nuwara Eliya. 
 
Nuwara Eliya Post Office

Best child labour

Rose Dale Bungalow

Evening entertainment



Day 5 - 22nd Sept 2019 (Travelling from Nuwara Eliya to Ella)
Accommodation: Ella Idyll Homestay LKR 56,000 for 2 nights 
Transportation:
Train from Nuwara Eliya to Ella RM 154.35
Chaminda - Car from 22nd Sept to 24th Sept USD 270.00
Attraction: The train ride from Nuwara Eliya to Ella


This day, after breakfast, some of us spent some time exploring the surrounding before we check out. Nothing interesting though.

Gregory Lake




The highlight of Day 5 was actually the train ride from Nuwara Eliya to Ella. We heard so much about this train ride, we actually purposely came for the stunning views and to experience the slow train ride. (The train station serving Nuwara Eliya is called “Nanu Oya” and it is about 8km away from the centre of town. So plan your time properly)

Due to we have 3 children, we wanted to make sure that it was not too hard for everyone. To make sure we could travel light, we actually booked Chaminda's service for 3 days. Thus, we could put our big luggage in his car, then he brought us to Nanu Oya train station, and he picked us up again at Ella train station.

The Nanu Oya train station was built in 1885. Everything is so last century and so analogue. The nostalgic feeling actually made the whole experience (from arriving to the train station, having meal in the canteen, boarding the train, the ride, arriving at Ella) so special. Special for someone like me, who remember how things were back then in Malaysia; special for the younger generations, who have never seen such things outside of a museum.




It was a raining day, 85% of the time,  clouds, fog and mist pretty much hiding much of the landscape for the journey. But this didn't stop us from enjoying the ride, taking tons of photos, chit-chat with the locals and conductor, sitting at the open door (and let the breeze picks up strands of hair. Pure and simple joy!)

beautiful mountain views

when we were lucky enough to have a little bit of sun

Happy tourists at Ella Train Station


We took an express train, so the whole journey is about 3 hours (depends on your luck, I have read blogs that said could go up to 5 hours). When we arrived at Ella, we went for late lunch at Ella town before we headed to Idyll Homestay. Our Homestay is about a ten minutes walk away from the main street in Ella. It offers amazing view of the mountains surrounding Ella. So after arriving here in the evening, we just stay put, rest, and enjoy the peacefulness.



Day 6 - 23rd Sept 2019 (Ella)
Accommodation: Ella Idyll Homestay
Transportation: Chaminda Charted Car 
Attractions: 9 Arch Bridge, Ravana falls


I woke up early, hoping to catch the sunrise but it was too cloudy so I had fun enjoying bird-watching instead. 



After having the wonderful Sri Lankan breakfast at Idyll Homestay, we headed to 9 Arch Bridge to wait for the train. (Haha, I know, tourists!) The short hike across the jungle from the main road to the bridge was not too difficult, all the children in our group could do it without any problems. We love the trekking, we love the views, we took tons of photos, but we didn't have the patience to wait for the train (well, we got the time table, but apparently the trains are not always on time)
 


Our next stop was Ravana falls. I brought all my swimming gears but to my disappointment, we were not allow to swim that day. I respect the authority a lot regarding this actually. It was raining season, and it rained heavily the few days before, and on the day we arrived. The waterfalls were just too dangerous to swim in. To prevent clueless tourists jump into the potential danger, there were a lot of uniformed personnel standing near the waterfall preventing people going near, and blowing whistles when you tried.



We headed back to Ella town after the brief stop at the waterfall, and heavy rain started again. We went into Cafe Chill for lunch, and stayed way passed afternoon tea because of the rain. When the rain finally getting lighter, we went back to our homestay and enjoy a great relaxing time there (took a nap, had snacks, enjoying the view, chit-chating, journaling, reading......and any other non-productive activities that you can think of)

view from our balcony

 

Day 7 - 24th Sept 2019 (Ella to Udalawale Big Game Camp)
Accommodation: 
Big Game Safari Camps total USD 1,170 with the following breakdown:
Tent accommodation on full board basis for 1 night
2 double tent - USD63 x 2 tents 
1 triple tents - USD80
1 family tent - USD114
2 half day standard safaris for:
8 adults - 370$ x 2 safaris = USD740
1 child (kids below 6 years old are free) - USD25 x 2 safaris 
2 naturalists for 2 half day safaris - USD15 x 2 jeeps x 2 safaris 
Transportation: Chaminda Charted Car


After breakfast, Chaminda brought us to Udalawale to meet up with the team from the Big Game Camp. They actually waited for us with their jeep at the road side as the journey from the main road into the campsite is a bit bumpy. We loved our tents. All these tents are quite secluded, simple and comfortable. 



After check in and a short rest, we started our first afternoon safari. As I have been to 2 safaris in South Africa, and since Sri Lanka's climate, flora and fauna are quite similar to Malaysia, it was less thrilled for me. But, still, it was enjoyable and fun.   


Group photo with the elephant herd



After the afternoon safari, we went back to the campsite and had romantic dinner in the dark :)



Day 8 - 25th Sept 2019 (Big Game Camp to Dikwella)
Accommodation: Dikwella Paradise Cove RM 2,207.83 for 2 nights, for the whole bungalow to ourselves
Transportation: Car from Udalawale to Nilwella LKR 12,000


We woke up very early as the morning safari started around 6am. While we were very disappointed that there were no signs of Sri Lankan leopards (the rangers pointed out their footprints though), but we met a few foxes. 



Picnic in the safari


If you are lucky, you can spot elephants just by the roadside. No need to go into the national park :)



After the safari, we checked out and headed to Dikwella next.



By the time we reached Paradise Cove, it rained again. Luckily our original plan was to stay relax and do nothing anyway. Paradise Cove is a beachfront villa located on the serene Nilwella Bay. It is far away from the tourist hotspots, and we almost felt like we own the entire beach! 
.
My room

During our first night, the chef prepared 10 dishes + 1 dessert!!! All the food were very tasty but it was just impossible for us to finished these! So, after some explanations, the chef finally understood that Malaysians are not like the Westerners, we need smaller portion, and we want drumsticks instead of chicken breast. Haha!
our dinner dishes
our dinner dishes


Day 9 - 26th Sept 2019 (Dikwella)
Accommodation: Paradise Cove 
Attraction: Hummanaya Blow Hole LKR 200 per pax


It was a sunny beautiful morning. I woke up early, had a morning stroll along the beach, swam in the pool, tried bodyboarding, had fun with the children in the pool, and had great Sri Lankan breakfast.

Paradise Cove Villa

Misty beach in the morning

Trying out bodyboarding

breakfast served by Paradise Cove



After the fabulous breakfast, we took tuk-tuks to explore Dikwella town, and followed by lovely lunch at Verse Collective at Dikwella beach. (And, of course, it rained again!)

Dikwella Beach right before the rain


After the rain stopped, we went to Hummanaya Blow Hole. Hummanaya Blowhole is the only known blowhole in Sri Lanka and it is considered to be the second largest blowhole in the world.

See the rainbow?


After having fun enjoying the sun, we went back to Paradise Cove and enjoying peaceful time by the beach, or in the pool.

Because the chef was so good, we ordered again dinner from them. This time, they reduced the dishes to 9, (and we had drumstick this round) and 1 dessert.




Day 10 - 27th Sept 2019 (Dikwella to Galle)
Accommodation: Sam Villa Galle Fort RM657.90 for the whole house
Transportation: Car from Nilwella to Galle LKR 12,000 


beautiful dawn

time stood still here

Great Sri Lankan breakfast by the chef

Thanks to the team at Paradise Cove, we had great time!


After a heavy late breakfast, we started our journey to Galle, with multiple stops along the way.

Dondra Head Lighthouse

Coconut Tree Hill at Mirissa


We arrived at Galle Fort around 5pm. After checked in at Sam Villa, we went out to explore a bit, had dinner, and called it a day.







Day 11 - 28th Sept 2019 (Galle to Colombo)
Accommodation: My Little Island Hostel RM 516.80 for one bunk-bed-room for all of us
Transportation: Car from Galle to Colombo LKR 15,000


I love Galle, Galle Fort to be exact.
While many bloggers warned other fellow travellers not to stay at Galle, as there's nothing much to do, I on the other hand, love this place exactly due to there's nothing much to do. This little colonial town within the fortifications is magically serene -- the atmospheric old cobbled streets, those contrast colours shops, colonial mansions and cottages......







We left Galle Fort around noon, and went to Colombo via Southern Expy/E01. It took about 2 hours to reach the capital city, the fastest commute we had in Sri Lanka. 

When we checked in at My Little Island Hostel, the kids were delighted. We booked a 12-bed dorm to ourselves, with 1 queen-sized bunk beds and 4 bunk beds. (For this trip, I tried my best to book various types of accommodation for the kids to experience. We stayed at a proper hotel at Dambulla, a budget hotel at Kandy, an English cottage at Nuwara Eliya, a homestay at Ella, glamping at Big Game Safari Camps, a beach front villa at Dikwella, a colonial guesthouse at Galle Fort, and a hostel at Colombo) 
 


Since we have one full day to explore Colombo on the next day, we didn't plan to visit any attractions on our first evening. We went straight to the Old Colombo Dutch Hospital (the oldest building in the Colombo Fort area dating back to the Dutch colonial era in Sri Lanka) because we planned to splurge at The Ministry of Crab. (They frequently appear on the list of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants)

Crab Sizes on the menu

On the menu, there is crab, crab and more crab. They serve only the best catch of the day. (The inception of Ministry of Crab is attributed to an episode of Chef Dharshan Munidasa’s TV show “Culinary Journeys with Dharshan”, which featured the Sri Lankan Lagoon Crab, showcasing how it was sourced in Sri Lanka and exported to Singapore to be made into the famous Singapore Chilli Crab. It was during the course of this shoot that the initial idea of creating a crab restaurant was born, as a culinary homecoming for this majestic crustacean, which had long been more renowned overseas than in Sri Lanka.)

I ordered crab liver pate, oyster sixers, 3 different flavours of crabs for sharing, and king prawn bisque. This restaurant definitely serve the best crabs that I have ever had, and the crab liver pate blew my mind. Even their wood fire Kade breads taste so "atas".




Day 12 - 29th Sept 2019 (Colombo; Return Home)
Car from Colombo to airport LKR 6,000


We had one whole day to explore Colombo as our flight back to Malaysia was in late evening. After we had breakfast in the hostel, we checked out, had our luggage stored at the hostel, and started to explore the capital city of Sri Lanka.

We first took a public bus to the Pettah Floating Market, did a little bit of window shopping while walking towards the Jami Ul-alfar Mosque. 


Jami Ul-alfar Mosque is one of the oldest mosques in Colombo. It is a hybrid style of architecture, that draws elements from native Indo-Islamic and Indian architecture, and combines it with the Gothic revival and Neo-classical styles. The distinctive red and white candy-striped is reminiscent of the Jamek Mosque in Kuala Lumpur.




After visiting the mosque, we took tuk-tuks to Gangaramaya Temple, then walked to Beira Lake for Seema Malaka. Due to the heat, we decided to hide into Colombo City Centre Shopping Mall (right opposite of Seema Malaka) for some last minute shopping and lunch.

Gangaramaya Temple is one of the most important temples in Colombo, being a mix of modern architecture and cultural essence. It's really interesting as you can exactly feel the mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian, and Chinese architecture and culture here. 

Entrance of Gangaramaya Temple


Gangaramaya Temple

Gangaramaya Temple

Gangaramaya Temple

Gangaramaya Temple

Seema Malaka is part of the Gangaramaya Temple, mainly used for meditation and rest, rather than for worship. Situated in the Beira Lake, it is definitely one of Colombo’s most photographed sights. 






We then walked from Colombo City Centre Shopping Mall to Paradise Road for some Sri Lankan souvenirs, then walked across the Viharamahadevi Park to the National Museum.

Viharamaha Devi Park Buddha Statue

National Museum


We then walked from National Museum back to My Little Island Hostel. Of course, we have to stop for afternoon tea because of the heat. We were lucky we found Mitsis Delicacies along the way.

Lalith Ethulathmudali Memorial

Mitsis Delicacies


When we finally reached My Little Island Hostel, we took turn to take showers, packed our luggage, and ended our lovely Sri Lanka trip here.

Farewell to Sri Lanka - photo taken at My Little Island Hostel lobby





Other itineraries:
2017 - Germany: Upper Middle Rhine Valley One Day Tour (Stay tune)